I'm a Well Driller not a Plumber so I'm sorry I can't help.  It just keeps getting crazier and crazier out there doesn't it?

2

(6 replies, posted in Water Wells, Pumps, & Tanks)

What your reading is true, they are junk.  They are made to go bad.  Planned obsolescence is a way of life with stuff like that.

With a jet pump size isn't all that important.  Just set the pressure switch where it won't allow the pump to cycle on and off when your using water.  The WX-202 is a good tank.  Yes, they are more money, but so are Cadillac's over KIA's.  Big difference in quality.

3

(6 replies, posted in Water Wells, Pumps, & Tanks)

If you plan on buying another tank, don't go to a big box store.
If your tank is leaking under the skirt, it's probably rotted out somewhere and will only get worse.  That tank tee  looked like brass, so it's likely not broken.  PVC can crack under there and possibly leak, but not brass.  So it's probably the tank that's going.
The only good tanks on the market in my opinion are Well X Trol, Flexcon and Zilmet.  The rest are just something to replace frequently.  A bad tank can also take out your pump motor.

4

(11 replies, posted in Meet The Welcome Wagon)

I guess it's good to be busy, but you do need time for yourself too.

Stay safe and we will see ya when we see ya.

Happy 4th!

5

(11 replies, posted in Meet The Welcome Wagon)

Glad to hear it. 
When you make that first million, come on back for a little chat.  We miss you.

6

(6 replies, posted in Water Conditioning)

Hey, hope you get the subscription to this.  Whee have you been???

7

(6 replies, posted in Water Conditioning)

Why  would you need a "HOT" water heater?

8

(11 replies, posted in Meet The Welcome Wagon)

Yeah, he built it.  He worked real hard putting it all together.  Maybe he will check in and let us know what's going on with him.  Maybe he's just been real busy.

9

(11 replies, posted in Meet The Welcome Wagon)

That is a good question.  I haven't heard a peep out of him for over a year.

I don't know how I missed this question, but running it at 50 and not allowing it to cycle on and off while watering is exactly what you want to do.  Cycling is hard on motors.

It is very hard on a motor to let it cycle.  All pump motors are continuous duty motors and running 24/7 is what they would like to do.  When a motor starts; the starting amperage is three to five times the actual running amps.  This builds head quickly, so the more starts in a short time, the more heat.  Once started, the built in fan will cool the motor as it runs and will keep it at a comfortable temperature for the motor.  This is not to say you should lay your hand on the motor in Tampa in the month of August.

13

(11 replies, posted in Meet The Welcome Wagon)

Your right about that.  Six mile creek is a stone's throw away.  If you need service there we can help you.  But your other location is far enough away that a service call to your home would probably keep your kids out of college:-)

14

(1 replies, posted in Water Wells, Pumps, & Tanks)

It could be the switch and it could be an ant between the points keeping the juice from flowing to the pump.  Those little ants are tough little guys.

If you can reach the tank, try to roll it a little.  If it's light, it's probably ok.  If it's heavy, it's probably bad.  If you do put in a new tank, remember that the pressure switch needs to be with the tank.

15

(4 replies, posted in Water Wells, Pumps, & Tanks)

Generally you would replace your pump with the same horsepower and pump end as the old one.

You must have galvanized pipe if you do have holes.  You can go back with Galvanized again or use SCH 80 PVC or use Poly 160 psi or better.  If you go with the poly to prevent more electrolysis, go with brass or stainless male adaptors.

16

(4 replies, posted in Water Wells, Pumps, & Tanks)

I think  your going to find out that your drop pipe has holes caused by electrolysis.  This is not common, but it happens a lot.  As the holes get bigger and more plentiful, the pressure will keep going down.  If you were to allow the pump to keep running for a while with no faucets open, the water around and in the pump is going to get very hot and eventually nuke the impellers in the pump.  This also lowers pressure.

I am quite sure you will have to pull it and replace the pump and pipe.

17

(11 replies, posted in Water Wells, Pumps, & Tanks)

If you want to see if you have holes in the pipe down the well, you have to remove that check valve all together.

18

(11 replies, posted in Water Wells, Pumps, & Tanks)

The reason your pressure goes to 40 real fast is because of the air pressure in the tank pushing the bladder down.  The tank can't take in water until the pump overcomes that 38 psi.  five to ten minutes is quite a long time for a submersible pump to fill a tank.

If you could undo the line from the well and run it wide open, you could see how much water is coming from the pump and/or if the pump is pulling the water in the well down to the pumps inlet.  This condition would make the water come out then quit and would just keep doing this if the well is not keeping up with the pump.  You could still have a hole or two in the drop pipe.  No way of telling that if you have a check valve up top.

Can you post some pictures?

19

(11 replies, posted in Water Wells, Pumps, & Tanks)

When installing a tank (if it's a bladder tank) the tanks air pressure should be two pounds less than the pressure switches turn on pressure.

Be careful with slip fittings, they can slip off and do some serious flooding damage.

I wouldn't mess with the pump until it  goes out.  You will need to know what to replace it with and you won't know that until you pull it out.  You may have to measure the water level if you can't read the label on the pump.

Don't let the mud and crud bother you.  That's normal and is nothing that can hurt you.  If it was, I would have never lived this long.

Amtrol is a good tank as long as it didn't come from a big box store.

20

(11 replies, posted in Water Wells, Pumps, & Tanks)

21

(3 replies, posted in Water Wells, Pumps, & Tanks)

The only time a pressure drop is possible is when your using water.  When the water is static in the pipes, it equalizes.  That is if it's level.  Pipe going up will have less pressure (hardly noticeable) and going down less pressure.  HD gauges are even cheaper than the junkie ones I sell.

22

(3 replies, posted in Water Wells, Pumps, & Tanks)

Sounds like you did the right thing with the tank.  What brand it is?  Model #?

The gauges I sell and most Well Drillers/Pump guys sell are extremely cheap and aren't expected to be super accurate or to last very long.  So one or both of your gauges are probably not on the money.  The pressure in your system will be the same throughout once water movement stops.  The fact that you have a 30/50 switch and that gauge is reading 30/50, I would say the downstream gauge is ten pounds off.

23

(11 replies, posted in Meet The Welcome Wagon)

I check in every day and there is no activity.  What's up with that?  There are a couple other plumbing forums out there and they get lots of hits.  What can we do to get this Forum moving?

What brand tank did you have and what do you have now?

I think I was this thread on another Forum.  What did you change beside the tank?  Did you use the same fittings?  Did you move the pressure switch?  Change pipe sizes?  Anything you did that was different from the old install.  What brand tank did you have and what do you have now?